17 Nov 2023

Mangaweka Asparagus - from fire to feast

From Country Life, 7:40 pm on 17 November 2023

When George and Diana Turney's home caught fire in the middle of the night, little did they know the tragedy would set them on the path to growing asparagus.

They lost everything in the blaze but the Taihape community rallied around with goods and funds which enabled the couple to start afresh and buy land in Northland.

With four children to raise and difficulties farming the land, the family had its ups and downs. Meanwhile George had always dreamt of returning to the Rangitikei district.

"I'd learnt this land can grow anything."

The Turneys eventually bought a sheep and beef farm in the Kawhatau Valley, over the river from Mangaweka. Out went the livestock and in came asparagus. 

Mangaweka Asparagus employs a team of 60 workers from Vanuatu

Mangaweka Asparagus employs a team of 60 workers from Vanuatu Photo: RNZ/Sally Round

That was 25 years ago and Mangaweka Asparagus now produces up to 250 tonnes of asparagus a season, off 70 hectares.

The Turneys brought in manager Sam Rainey nine years ago and workers from Vanuatu come every year for the harvest.

When Country Life visits, the morning pick is over and the 60-strong team are in the packhouse, weighing and bundling up the spears, music pumping in the background.

Glen Towbah, in his eleventh season, is at the front on quality control.

He weighs the bundles after checking the spears are neatly taped up and of similar size, which ensures the bunch cooks evenly. 

"We try to sell the best," he said.

Glen Towbah has worked eleven asparagus seasons and goes on to pick apples. The RSE scheme allows them to stay up to seven months in New Zealand over an 11-month period

Glen Towbah has worked eleven asparagus seasons and goes on to pick apples. The RSE scheme allows them to stay up to seven months in New Zealand over an 11-month period Photo: RNZ/Sally Round

The quality has to be spot on, Rainey says, because their crop comes to the market a little later in the season. They go on harvesting later too, feeding those who are still keen for asparagus after the Christmas splurge.

"You've got to be producing early or producing late to make any money in this industry," Rainey says.

His workers can take back home as much as $15,000 after seven months harvesting asparagus and apples, allowing them to build a well-constructed house, pay school fees and perhaps in time set up a small business.

Their remote workplace in the Kawhatau Valley means they're not tempted to spend too much of their earnings, Towbah said.

The Turneys say it's great to have the team back after the tough Covid years when the men were not allowed in and there weren't enough hands to harvest.

But this year has been tough too with lower demand and oversupply because of the various growing regions peaking at the same time.

All parts of the farm have been mowed down at some stage this season in order not to flood the market and depress prices further.

"It's been as bad as I've seen it in my nine seasons," Rainey said. 

The industry has promotions underway this year to encourage consumption and good displays in shops. 

"We're throwing the kitchen sink at it."

Sam Rainey, manager of Mangaweka Asparagus

Sam Rainey, manager of Mangaweka Asparagus Photo: RNZ/Sally Round

"It breaks your heart to see a tractor out there mowing it off," George Turney said from his kitchen overlooking the paddocks.

He and Diana are, unsurprisingly, avid eaters of asparagus, showing off their simple method of blanching the spears and then dragging them through garlicky butter.

George and Diana Turney, owners of Mangaweka Asparagus

George and Diana Turney, owners of Mangaweka Asparagus Photo: RNZ/Sally Round

They may have an abundant supply of asparagus on the doorstep but employment for so many is what has given the Turneys the most satisfaction. 

"When you lose a house and all your material things in life and the community come to your aid, I'm very pleased to give back," George said.

Adi Seimo checking the quality at Mangaweka Asparagus

Adi Seimo checking the quality at Mangaweka Asparagus Photo: RNZ/Sally Round